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He was a huge man and the hairs on his moustache bristled when he was furious, which was often, and I was a curious young waiter. I fell, my jaw badly smashed. Shock: Raymond says that he moved to Britain when restaurant food was either frozen or came out of a jar. However, he said he knew a restaurateur in England who would give me a job. So, when I had recovered, I crossed the Channel. That was in , and it was the turning point in my life.
My God, it was bad. This was the era of the prawn cocktail, when restaurant food was either frozen or came out of a jar. The rivers of Britain were teeming with fresh trout, but at that first restaurant you could smell the fish man a mile down the road. But once I picked up a frying pan — and used it to cook rather than wallop people — I became quite a success. While I was never more than a waiter in France, I have made a name for myself as a chef in Britain and feel blessed to live here.
For this new TV series, I would travel to five regions of France, take over a restaurant and cook the special dishes of that area. My nerves were jangling though because the French have extremely high expectations. Would I find the best ingredients? Would I mess up a dish? Would I sully the name of Le Tresor Gastronomique De La France, a 19th-century, page compilation listing all the regional specialities?
I started in the enchanting, grapevine- covered landscape of Burgundy where the food — dishes such as beef bourguignon — is steeped in elegant wines. In Lyon I met up with my dear friend chef Paul Bocuse and indulged in the superb chocolate the city is famous for. I made a crumble with it and served it to my guests in a bouchon — a typical rustic Lyonnais restaurant. The French love British crumble. Heading south, Provence provided Mediterranean sunshine and I was instantly reminded of my first visit, when I was 12 and went to see a friend who had moved there.
It was like going to another country: the smell of fennel and lavender, the lazy sound of crickets, the constant blue sky — and the bustling market stalls laid out with lobster, octopus and squid. I drove to Alsace for hearty, wholesome dishes. Years ago I came to this region intending to stay for a day and ended up staying a week. It was one long meal. What adventures, what freedom!