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Midway through a two-week trip to Palestine in February , I joined about Orthodox Jewish tourists for a weekly tour of the Palestinian-controlled section of Hebron, a city 30 kilometers 19 miles south of Jerusalem.
To the approximately 86 Orthodox families living in central Hebron back then, the tours were an opportunity to assert a historic claim to one of the most religiously significant cities in the region and recruit particularly observant members of the Jewish diaspora to put down roots in one of the most violently contested settlement outposts that Israel has established since For the , Palestinian residents of Hebron, the ritual was yet another demonstration of Israeli military might and a weekly reminder of who was really in charge in the West Bank territories that were meant to be part of a future Palestinian state.
A chorus of sellers shouted out the prices of various goods at no one in particular. Radio and television blared from almost every store. Wizened men chatted conspiratorially over coffee and cigarettes, some absentmindedly fingering prayer beads. As we approached the first Israeli military checkpoint, the crowds began to thin out and the market grew quiet. Above us, fencing strewn with detritus covered the alleys that were lined with rows of shuttered stalls, many of which had hand-drawn Jewish stars scrawled on them.
Behind a chain-link fence ringed with barbed wire, a group of Orthodox boys, who appeared to be the same age as my guide, were playing basketball on the roof of a former hospital, Beit Hadassah, in what was once the center of the old city. The hospital was annexed by a group of Israelis from the Kiryat Arba settlement on the outskirts of Hebron in the s.
In , a messianic resident of that settlement killed 29 Palestinians kneeling in prayer in front of the burial site of Abraham and his descendants, which is known as the Tomb of the Patriarchs in Judaism and the Ibrahimi Mosque in Islam. Since , the city and the tomb have been divided, with Jews restricted to the southwestern side and Muslims to the northeastern portion. Our guide led us up a narrow staircase to an apartment in a seemingly abandoned building that overlooked the militarized boundary between H1 and H2, where Mohammad Sader lived with his wife and nine-month-old son.