We moored at a small timber quay at the tiny but very pretty village of Riaucourt where a shady shelter attached to an ancient pigeon loft, preserved for its uniqueness, provided picnic tables β a perfect setting for an evening barbecue. And now, with the equinox behind us there is a decided autumnal nip in the early morning air. Chaumont and Langres, a couple of days further up the Canal entre Champagne et Bourgogne are among our favourite towns to visit. Both occupy prominent hilltop positions with heavily fortified ramparts that are a joy to walk around and take in the panoramas over the countryside.
They are both neat with many restored historic landmarks. The port at Langres is only two locks shy of the top pound and 4. The small village of Balesmes is nestled in a little valley directly above the tunnel. At the head of this valley the Marne springs from the limestone layers under the hill above and commences its long meander down through Champagne to the Seine just before Paris.
A clearly marked path leads through the forest from the carpark to a small crystal clear stream emanating from under an iron gate set in a concrete bunker that looks like a tomb or shrine. In fact it probably was a reconstructed shrine as the Romans were known to have worshiped at the source of most venerated rivers. Nearby is a cave where Sabinus, a grandson of Julius Caesar, hid for several years after leading a failed revolt against the local Roman authorities before being captured and taken back to Rome to suffer a grisly execution.
We then headed back into Langres to enjoy a sumptuous lunch at a superb restaurant that would rate among the best we have experienced. We decided some time ago that we would rather eat out occasionally and well than suffer repasts that one could cook equally as well, or better, at home. We stopped twice between Chaumont and Langres. First at Foulain which is completely insignificant except it is the closest port to Nogent.
Last time we biked the 7km to this town, world renowned for its forges that have produced knives, scissors and surgical tools for several hundred years. The final 1. Another film followed the production, by hand, of a bone-handled pocket knife complete with two blades and its range of accessory tools. Only a few craftsmen remain these days making such things in their home workshops. Even viewing the film, watching the cutting and sharpening of tools, fingers only millimetres away from saw blades and grindstones caused us to shudder.
